Nova Scotia for Great Winery Escapes

My favorite thing about being a wine enthusiast is discovering a luscious new varietal, especially from emerging, lesser known appellations – one that will “wow” my fellow wine aficionadas at our next tasting. Recent noteworthy wines (and their respective terroirs) have included Pinot Noirs from Willamette Valley, Oregon and sparkling Proseccos from Valdobbiadene, Italy. However, my newest wines-of-choice came from an unexpected place, just a ferry's ride away from my home in midcoast Maine.

As most wine connoisseurs know, Ontario and Okanogan Valley in British Columbia already have established and highly celebrated appellations. But Canada’s newest rising star is undoubtedly the Annapolis Valley in Nova Scotia. Nestled along the rugged Atlantic Coast just north of Yarmouth, Annapolis is famed for its picture-perfect views of the Bay of Fundy, historic farmhouses, lush orchards, bountiful farmers’ markets and, now, emerging boutique wineries.

Nova Scotia produces about 500,000 liters of wine annually and the industry has been growing steadily at five to 10 percent for the last six years. In fact, according to a study by Statistics Canada in 2006, wine sales in Nova Scotia have doubled since 1993, the largest growth in Canada overall. Most of the wines in Nova Scotia are made from cross-produced – or hybrid – grapes bred to thrive in the cooler climate: the popular whites include L'Acadie (pronounced LACK-ah-dee), New York Muscat and Vidal Blanc, plus such robust reds as Baco Noir, Marechal Foch, Lucie Kuhlmann and Leon Millot.

An easy one-hour drive from Halifax, the scenic Annapolis Valley is on the verge of exploding as a wine destination, with many large vineyards already in existence. In addition, two new wineries opened in 2008 with expectations for more in the near future, which will help enhance the already burgeoning "wine trail." We toured three of these award-winning wineries during our trip to Annapolis Valley, which are sure to top any wine lovers’ future must-visit list.

Gaspereau Vineyards

Nestled on a hilltop overlooking its namesake valley, Gaspereau Vineyards is a sister winery to the much-celebrated, nearby Jost Wineries. In just her second year as winemaker, Gina Haverstock created quite a buzz at this year’s awards season by winning seven gold medals for the winery’s various 2007 varietals: Rosé, Seyval Blanc, Reserve Port (made with local maple syrup and L’Acadie brandy), plus her first-ever batch of Riesling. "People were calling the winery in the spring, way before the Riesling was even close to hitting the shelves, to ask if we had a waiting list – all because of the hype last year," Haverstock said. But just one taste of this bright, off-dry Riesling with a hint of sweetness will easily validate its rave reviews. Truth be told, I enjoyed all of the wines I tasted here, including the 2005 Vitis and 2006 Lucie Kuhlmann, both luxuriant, full-bodied reds.

Domaine de Grand Pré

The original Grand Pré Winery was owned by Roger Dial, who paved the way for the Nova Scotia wine industry in the late ‘70s with his trials of nearly 100 varieties from around the globe. Now known as Domaine de Grand Pré, this stunningly beautiful, Old World-style winery and vineyard is operated by the Swiss-born Stutz family, namely owner/manager Hanspeter and winemaker son, Juerg. Tours of the vineyard are conducted daily, where wine lovers can view and learn firsthand about the different grape varieties, chosen not only for their wonderfully intense flavors, but for optimum growth in the cooler climate and shorter growing season. Standout varietals include the buttery, award-winning 2007 L’Acadie Blanc and the light-bodied, fruit-forward Leon Millot. While there, don’t miss a chance to enjoy these elegant, hand-crafted wines with a visit to the on-site Restaurant Le Caveau with its spectacular panoramic patio views and seasonal gourmet menu showcasing local game, seafood and produce.

Sainte-Famille Wines

Owner Suzanne Corkum was one of the Annapolis Valley’s wine pioneers, but originally purchased the land in 1980 to create a strawberry farm. Following a decline in the U-pick industry, Corkum decided to capitalize on her property’s unique terroir – one of the area’s warmest growing climates – to produce specialty wines instead, beginning in 1990. The Sainte-Famille tasting room/gift shop has a friendly, informal vibe and also features whimsical wine accessories and locally produced gourmet food items and gift baskets. Some of my favorite varietals sampled include the crisp, citrus-laden 2005 L’Acadie Blanc and the full-bodied Marechal Foch with a black cherry bouquet, produced from the oldest vines in Nova Scotia. Saint-Famille conducts daily tours and tastings, as well as an annual Harvest Fest with food, live entertainment and grape-stomping contests.

Where to Stay

Located just minutes from wine country, with its historic Main Street lined with restaurants and shops, Wolfville is the natural choice for a relaxing evening after a whirlwind tour of Annapolis Valley wineries. Accommodation choices in Wolfville range from elegant inns to cozy bed-and-breakfasts in turn-of-the-century houses. For our stay, we chose the Blomidon Inn, a Victorian-style English manor built in the 19th century by a wealthy Nova Scotian sea captain. If available, the resplendent Perth Cottage is worth the splurge with its comfy king-sized bed, propane fireplace, outdoor patio and sunken jacuzzi tub. For dinner, head to the Inn’s award-winning restaurant for the four-course “Captain’s Dinner” with fresh, seasonal menu offerings specially paired with local wines by their resident sommelier. Complimentary afternoon tea service and a continental buffet-style breakfast are also offered to overnight guests.

Getting There

You can reach Nova Scotia’s mainland by car, train (via Rail Canada) or plane – most airlines fly into the capital city of Halifax. However, the most relaxing travel choice by far is a swift trip aboard the CAT Ferry, with roundtrip service from Portland or Bar Harbor, Maine to Yarmouth. Passengers can choose to walk-on or drive their car, motorcycle or RV aboard the ship. Named one of the world’s best "super ships" by the Discovery Channel, the CAT offers such luxury amenities as on-board cafe and bar, spacious seating with reclining chairs, a casino area, duty-free shop, TV/movie lounges and an outdoor deck to view the passing scenery and marine wildlife.

IF YOU GO:

* Nova Scotia travel planner with maps, event calendar & suggested itineraries: www.novascotia.com 

* Taste of Nova Scotia culinary guide: www.tasteofnovascotia.com

* Winery Association of Nova Scotia: www.winesofnovascotia.ca 

* Town of Wolfville: www.wolfville.info 

-By Tiffany Owens

Photos by David Waddle